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Introduction
There are few things in life as good as your own herbs, grown by yourself at home out in the garden and indoors in pots... Oregano, Dill, Basil, Sage and other herbs are all easy to grow. Mint will take over the whole yard if you let it. Fresh mint and cilantro are incredible in salads and oriental dishes. But it all comes down to a truly motivational herb that is your friend and mine, a great healer and teacher to those that know it well. Most people think of gardens as a seasonal, yearly project, but it's actually less time consuming and more rewarding to keep the garden going year round. If one were to attempt to grow year round, indoor gardening techniques will be needed at least during winter to keep the garden producing. You will have herb fresh at all times, there is no worry of mass storage thru the winter and spring, it requires less space, and once established, requires only minimal attention every week to keep it producing at optimal levels. The best part of being a gardener is it connects you to the earth. It connects you with nature, and is spiritually enriching. Try giving your plants energy by beaming good thoughts and energy at them every time you visit them. I find this helps me as much as it helps them; my plants seem to respond to it favorably.
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Choosing your required strain
It's very important to start with good genetics. What are good genetics? You tell us. Do you enjoy that hard hitting, sedative stone, that puts you to sleep? Do you enjoy the soaring euphoric cerebral qualities that will leave you in a hazed fluster?? Or perhaps a little of both??? There are three distinguished variations of the marijuana plant. These three variations include Cannabis Sativa, Cannabis Indica, and Cannabis Ruderalis. Cannabis Sativa is a hard plant to grow indoors due to high lighting requirements, tall stature, and late flowering traits. Sativas come from equatorial regions, thus the neccesity for high ammounts of lighting and a warmer tropic-subtropic climate. You can identify a Sativa by its long, slender, finger-like leaves. A Sativa will typically produce a euphoric, energetic, cerebral high. Despite the Sativa's climatic limitations, they are truly a reward to obtain, grow, and smoke. A pure Sativa will take 2 to 4 months to finish flowering. Cannabis Indica is a great plant to grow indoors as well as outdoors due to its low lighting requirements and tight internode spacing, also offering resistance to fungus and pests, early maturation tendencies, and dense flower production. Indica's come from colder climates exhibiting the traits described above by acclimating to the environment from whence they came. Their stout stature and extremely wide leaflets make them easy to identify. An Indica generally produces a hard hitting, tiresome, sedative stone, and will take around 45 to 60 days to finish flowering. Cannabis Ruderalis is not a very good choice for flower production, indoors or out. Despite maintaining a short stature, growing only one to five feet tall, and maturing rather quickly, Ruderalis just doesn't produce the yield or quality one looks for in their flowers. A slight light cycle reduction can trigger a sprout with as little as 2 to 3 leaf sets to flower. Ruderalis spontaneously initiates flowering a few weeks after sprouting, and will not produce decent flowers unless the photoperiod provides around 18 to 19 hours of light. Even then, the yield and quality are less than desirable, incomparable to that of the Sativa or Indica sub-species. You didn't think we'd forget to mention Hybrids, did you? Hybrids can carry the best of both worlds regarding high and growth patterns in their genetic makeup, some will not. A Hybrid has potential to exhibit every good trait one looks for when breeding. A rather common Hybrid is hard hitting, euphoric, energetic, dense, and stout, making that particular hybrid the perfect all around plant for someone looking for that particular high, growing indoors, as well as out. It all comes down to your growing conditions and personal preference. Attempt to find seeds from local gardeners that have been acclimated to the local climate conditions, and carry the best floral characteristics - potency, aroma, flavor, vigorous growth, early maturation, resistance to fungus and pests. Look for seeds that are dark brown or light grey. Some may have dark lines inset into these colors, like tiger stripes. White, small seeds are immature and should not be planted. All of these factors are considered by the seasoned gardener. You will benefit enormously by finding a friend to get you started. However, some of us are not fortunate enough to find these "friends" to aid in our seed need, so we go international. Ordering your seeds from an online Seedbank becomes ideal in this scenario. Seedbanks are a great place to search for specific breeds you've grown rather fond of, as well.
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Lighting
Light is needed by a plant for using nutrients and manufacturing food. It has a great influence on chlorophyll production, growth rate, leaf size, and flower and seed production. Light will be one of the most important aspects of your grow operation. For the purposes of growing marijuana there are two basic types of lights; Fluorescent's (HID High Intensity Discharge - including MV (mercury vapor), MH (metal halide), and HPS (High Pressure Sodium) HID vs. FLUORESCENT'S The main difference is that fluorescent's create light by passing electricity through a gas vapor under low pressure and HID creates light by passing electricity through a gas vapor under high pressure. HID lights are MUCH brighter and while initially more expensive, are more cost efficient to operate and will grow a much nicer crop. Therefore, they are the light of choice for most indoor growers. FLUORESCENTS Fluorescents come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. There are compacts, twist bulbs and circle bulbs. They all work the same way. They have a starter and ballast which help provide a steady and regulated amount of electricity to the light. Before HID lights were available indoor growers used fluorescent lights. While fluorescents can be used for an entire grow from seedling to harvest, it is generally not advised to use them in this way. To grow effectively with fluorescent's, think small. These lights are better suited for starting seedlings, rooting clones and small plants, maintaining moms for cloning purposes, and providing sidelight for the undergrowth. These situations do not require a high intensity of light to run their course. The light emitted by fluorescents is gentler and more diffuse, it doesn't release a lot of heat, and doesn't make the plant work as hard. For this reason they can be kept closer to the plant. One or two inches is sufficient, but this also means that the lights must be adjusted almost daily to accommodate growth which can be troublesome. High Intensity Discharge There are basically 3 types of HID lights. MV (Mercury vapor), MH (Metal Halide), and HPS (High Pressure Sodium). These lights also require a starter and a ballast. MV - Mercury Vapor is the type of lights that were used for streetlights many years ago. Not very good for growing because it doesn't provide enough of the right kind of light spectrum. While they do provide a littleof the blue spectrum, MV also produces too much heat to get very close to a plant, and are very inefficient to operate. MH - The Metal Halide is a very good source of the white/blue spectrum of light that is ideal for vegetative growth. Many growers use MH during the vegetative phase. MH is bright and cost efficient to operate, but not as efficient as HPS lights. Most commonly used sizes are 400 watt and 1000 watt. Works best when used in combination with HPS lights. HPS - The best light available today for growing Marijuana. High Pressure Sodium lights are very bright and very efficient. This light has a red/orange spectrum that is ideal for the flowering phase. With enough of these kind of lights you too can grow those centerfold buds. HPS comes in a wide variety of wattages from 70 watts up to 1000 watts. LIGHTING FORMULAS To correctly determine the best lighting for your space there are several things that you have to know. At this point, a couple of definitions are in order. Lumens - one lumen is equal to the amount of light emitted by one candle that falls on one square foot of surface one foot away. Watts - A measure of the amount of electricity flowing through a wire. Watt hours measure the amount of watts used in one hour. A kilowatt/hour (KWH) is 1000 watt/hours. To determine the cost of operating your light: Find your KWH charge on your electric bill. Assume you have a 1000 watt light and your KWH charge is $.05/hour. A kilowatt equals 1000 watts, therefore it will cost you .05 cents per hour to run that light. Here's another example. Say you have a 400 watt light and your KWH charge is $.03. Since 400 watts is not a kilowatt, you must divide 400 by 1000 = .4 kilowatts x .03 (KWH rate from electric bill) = $0.012 cents per hour to run. To determine how many lumens per square foot you have: Find out the square footage of your space. Width x Depth = Square feet. Divide the lumens available by your square footage. This will give you lumens per square foot. Example: Say your space is 3 feet deep by 4 feet wide, 12 square feet. The total lumens available from your light(s) is 45000 lumens. 45000/12 = 3750 lumens per square foot. Now for the big question. How much light do I need? Technology has advanced so much in the last 15 years that we are constantly refining the process and updating what we know works best for growing. Current theory holds that the minimum amount of lighting needed to sustain growth is around 2000 lumens per square foot. Mid range is around 5000 lumens per square foot. Optimal is 7000-7500, or higher, lumens per square foot. What if you want to determine how much light you need in watts? The general rule of thumb for providing light for an area is a minimum of 30 watts per square foot. 50 watts per square foot is optimal. You can determine the proper lighting for your area by using this formula: 30 watts (or 50) x ?(your) square feet. Example: You have an area of 10 sq. ft. - 30w x 10 s.f. = 300watts/sq.ft minimum or 50 watts x 10 s.f. = 500 watts/sq. ft. (optimal). Also, remember that fluorescent's are weaker and emit less light than an HID. This means you will need 5 times the amount of wattage to equal the output of an HID. So, 30 watts of HID would equal 150 watts of fluorescent's. This is why it is advised to provide a minimum of 30 watts per square foot for HID lights and a minimum of 150 watts per square foot for fluorescent's. This is all important because the light intensity will directly affect the quality and yield of your crop. If you have less than optimal lighting your yield and potency will be reduced and buds will not develop as dense. This point can not be stressed enough. You must have the right amount of light for your space to grow high quality bud. The question is often asked, "can I have too MUCH light?". The basic answer is no. According to the law of diminishing returns, you could theoretically reach a point when your plants just couldn't absorb any more light but it would be impossible to have that many lights in your space. Heat from the lights would become a problem long before you ever reached that point. So use as many lights as you want, just control the heat. Experimentation is the only sure method to determine the best solution for each plant. If plants are not receiving enough light, they begin to grow tall and spindly as if stretching for the light and foliage becomes pale green. Or, if they need to be moved closer to the light, or given a longer light exposure period. Too much light may lead to bleaching of leaves and flowers, browning and shriveling. Leaves would become overly compact and curl under at the edges. PHOTOPERIOD Your plants should be started and taken through vegetative growth with a 24/7 or 18/6 light regimen. The reason for an 18/6 regimen is to give the plants a short dark period to breathe and to reduce your electric bill a little bit. Most plants thrive with at least 16 hours of light a day. Adjustments should be made according to individual plant requirements. For flowering 12/12 is the norm. Again, adjustments may need to be made. A minimum of 12 hours of darkness is required to trigger the flowering process. LIGHTING NO-NO'S Don't burn your plants by getting them to close to the light(s). Fluorescent's do not put out much heat and can be as close as one or two inches. HID lights get much hotter and will need to be farther away. A good test is to put your hand between the light and the plant. If your hand gets too hot for comfort, the light is too close. There are some common lights that may induce a seed to come up, but are worthless for growing purposes. These lights include; Any incandescent (regular) light bulb, halogen lights, black lights and heat lamps. Don't waste your time trying to grow with these lights, you will only be disappointed.
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Germination
Germinating / sprouting So, you have your beans in your hand. Now you are wondering what you are gonna do to get these to start growing. If you have purchased seeds from a reputable seed bank then you can be sure that they are all fit to attempt to germinate since they have been through a screening process already. However, if you have obtained your seeds from a bag then you need to do some simple checks to see if the seeds are viable or not. One way to test yourself is to lightly squeeze the seed between your index finger and thumb. If it gets crushed, then it's no good. Usually white, dried up seeds are immature and will crush. Dark green, green or brown seeds are more apt to germinate well. You can't tell the sex of a plant by looking at the seeds. The are some theories here but there are no physical signs that one can use to distinguish male from female seeds. Some people like to germinate the seed using methods such as the paper towel method before they grow the plant. This is to ensure that the seed(s) get off to a good start . But it is not really necessary to do this unless you have a large amount of seeds for your area (50-100+ seeds). If you only have a few seeds then you can plant them right in the soil. To germinate in a paper towel simply place the seed between to dampened pieces of the paper towel. Next, place the seed/towel combination into a Tupperware container or plate. Set the container on top of a computer monitor, refrigerator or propagation pad and wait until the seed cracks and you see a tiny white root tip start to emerge from the seed. After you have germinated the seed you will see a little white root sticking out of the split shell. Dig a small hole in the soil (I like to use the end of a pencil to make the hole). When planting the seed(s) or sprout be sure to only go down 1/4" to 1/2" and drop the seed in. Make sure that the root or pointy side of the seed is pointing down when inserting into the soil. Fill over the whole with soil, then keep the soil moist but not damp/wet with some water. You should provide at least 4" of vertical space for the tap root to grow down. Place one seed each in a 20oz+ cup or a one gal pot then place your pot under your lights. Start with a 24/7 light cycle (24 hours on, 7 days a week). You should see sprouts within 2-14 days depending on your individual conditions and the method you used. For quickest results try and keep the temperature in the mid to high 80's (F). You will see slower germination rates but lower temperatures are acceptable as well (70s), this will simply increase the amount of time it takes to germinate the seed. The sprout will emerge first with the 2 seed leaves. These leaves are small, smooth and round followed by a set of single bladed, serrated leaves known as the first leaves. The height of your light from the sprout will depend on what kind you are using. If using florescent lights, they usually run cool enough to put them within 1-2 inches of your sprouts. If your going with a HPS or MH type of light, they get hot, so you won't want them too close. A good way to test a light is to put your hand between the plant (or in this case soil) and test how hot it is with your hand. If it's uncomfortable for your hand, it's too hot. Raise the light up until you reach a good temperature. These type of lights will also dry your soil out fast, so keep your eye on it. Once your light is set and the leaves start coming in you now are on you way to growth stage. Once you see the plant break though the top of the soil (it should take from 1 day to 1 week) you will see two small round leaves. Your plant will grow up a few inches with the two leaves getting a bit bigger and new leaves starting between the two round ones. Your stem will probably look white, green or even purple at this stage. The color depends on what strain of plant you have. It's advised that you refrain from giving your plant fertilizer during the first stages of growth. These stages are quite delicate, it doesn't take much to make a fatal mistake. Remember though out the whole live span of your plant, like most other things in life, the more things you have going on at one time, the more likely for a problem to arise. Your best bet is to keep things simple.
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Vegetation/Flowering
Once your new sprout starts producing leaves, you are in the vegetative growth stage of the plant. Only water when the soil is dry all the way to the bottom of the container it is growing in. You can check by sticking a finger through one of the drain holes in the bottom of the pot to feel how wet the soil is, or by using a water meter. Perhaps the best method, however, is to wait for the plant to tell you it needs water. The leaves will start wilting slightly and the plant generally looks "thirsty". The reason this method is preferable to others is twofold – one, you are assured of not overwatering, and two, allowing the soil to dry out completely stimulates the roots to grow as they search for water. More roots = a bigger, stronger plant = more & better buds. Probably the most common error for new growers is overwatering. Over watering will cause the plant to grow poorly, and if continued will lead to root rot and eventual death. Be careful if you are starting out with a large pot. If you water a small plant too much in a large pot, the plant may not be able to soak up all that water. It may look dry on top, but you might end up having mud on the bottom of the soil. This will cause root rot on your plant and is very unhealthy. A plant that is not watered enough is much more healthy then a plant that is watered too much. It's also harder to recover from over watering then under watering. As a rule 1/2 inch of gravel or another suitable, high draining mixture at the bottom of the pot will help to prevent this problem and will also stop the plant from drowning if it’s over-watered. It's a good idea to have a fan hooked up and ready to go once the plant breaks though the soil. Having a fan blowing on the stem from the start of growth will insure a good strong stem so the plant will be able to hold it self upright during its life span. Simulating wind by providing a gentle breeze will help your stem grow strong to support the weight of the leaves and buds as the wind will cause small tears in the plants stem walls, tears that are repaired as the plant grows and provide strength to the main stem. Bigger, stronger stems = bigger, stronger plant = more & better buds. It's a good idea to have a fan hooked up and ready to go once the plant breaks though the soil. Having a fan blowing on the stem from the start of growth will insure a good strong stem so the plant will be able to hold it self upright during its life span. Simulating wind by providing a gentle breeze will help your stem grow strong to support the weight of the leaves and buds as the wind will cause small tears in the plants stem walls, tears that are repaired and provide strength. The temperature can be anywhere from the low 70s to the high 80s with no damage to the plants. For soil, the desired pH range is between 6.3 and 6.8 generally speaking. Anything in that range will be safe for your plant. The humidity should be around 60% for vegetative growth. During the vegetative cycle feed your plants a high Nitrogen (N) food. There are many kinds of products that carry high Nitrogen content. It's generally best to start the mixture out at ¼ the recommended dosage and increase the strength whilst the plant grows and develops in both foliage and root size, overdoing the nutrients at this point will not make the plant grow faster, but will most likely burn it. For vegetative growth, look for a fertilizer with a NPK ratio of roughly 2-1-1. NPK is the number found on fertilizer packages that signifies the amount and ratio of the three major nutrients needed by plants: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). For this stage, then, look for a fertilizer that has roughly twice as much N as it does P and K. Now that your plant is around the 12" mark or 4 - 6 weeks old, you might notice the leaves sets start to alternate. When the top branches start to alternate this is the sign that your plant has reached maturity and are ready to be flowered Since you have your plant in the 24/7 cycle let the plant grow for as long as you like. A plant may double, triple even quadruple its' height when flowering. Sativas can stretch up to 4 times there height and Indicas generally double in height. Some strains call for up to 8 weeks of vegetative growth. Your height, yield and potency will all depend on the strain and the way it was grown. As our aim is for bud, and lots of it, we will try and avoid massive plants unless we have the light to provide them with, otherwise we get a plant with huge stems, and only bud at the top 9 or 10 inches. Remember, you can only get "bud" from a female plant. So you want to focus your efforts on the female plants. In order to find the sex of the plant, get a light timer and put the lights on a cycle of 12hours on and 12hours off. Having a light timer is much easier then doing it manually and is much more accurate. Make sure your plants get the complete 12hours of darkness during this stage. Any light interruption may prolong your sexing results for days or even weeks. Your flowering stage may take 2-3 months. You need to keep them on a constant cycle and remember to have complete darkness during the 12 hours of no light. Any interruption may cause reduced yield, potency, or extended harvest. During the flowering cycle feed your plants need a high Phosphorous (P) food. There are many kinds of products that carry high amounts of Phosphorous. Generally start out the mixture at 1/2 the recommended dosage. The humidity should ideally be around 40% to 55% for this stage. After a few days to usually 14 days of your 12/12 cycle, look for little white hairs (indicating a female) or little balls (which will be male) starting to grow at the base of each internode. The hairs will grow to about 1/4" long or so. They will be easily visible. Expect to see a pair of these hairs at each site. The balls may also grow at the base of each branch. They will grow in bunches and look a little like horns before forming. These balls contain pollen. As soon as you have identified what sex your plant is (male or female) then cull the males (remove them from the area) to give the females more room and more light. This is the start of the buds forming. As time goes on the buds will get bigger and bigger and they will use more and more fertilizer. It is advised that you stop using ferts 2 weeks before your harvest to ensure that all chemicals are out of the plant. If chemicals are in the plant when you harvest, the smoke will be very harsh. To prevent harshness, flush the plants heavily with fresh water 2 weeks prior to harvesting them. Ensure you flush at least 3 times the capacity of your pot. So a 4 gallon pot would be flushed with 16 gallons of fresh water. You can smoke male plants, but the main focus is the female bud. This is rich with THC and can be very enjoyable to smoke. Soon you will be harvesting your plant once it has grown to the point where it stops, and begins to swell and become ripe.
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Harvesting/Curing
The harvesting, drying, and curing of a mature cannabis plant is the climax of the growing experience, it is the final step in claiming cultivation independence. Although these are the last steps of the cultivation process, they are of the most critical to the final product. The harvest, for example, depending on the cultivators ability to judge maturity, can greatly increase or decrease the levels of THC, as well as the levels of CBN and CBD. Cannabis is harvested when the flowers are ripe. The best indicator of ripeness is the color of the flower's pistils. Over the course of the flowering period, these pistils begin to die and, depending on the strain, turn different shades of brown, orange, and so on. Many cultivators choose to harvest when 60-75% of the pistils, or 'hairs' have changed colors. Optimum harvest times will vary widely with each Cannabis strain, so the best way to find that perfect harvest time is to experiment! Try cutting buds off during different times of flower (one at 6 weeks, then one at 7 weeks, etc.) to determine which time period suits you best. When picked early and immaturely, Cannabis flowers will contain a lower concentration of CBN and CBD while maintaining a high amount of THC content. For some, flowers that have been picked a bit early are desirable, as the higher level of THC produces a very 'up' and cerebral high. When Cannabis buds are picked in a more mature state, the levels of THC drop and the levels of CBN and CBD increase. This fluctuation is cause for a more 'down' and stoney high. Sit back and have some food already prepared! The final yeild of the plant will depend greatly on your chosen harvest time, nutes you have provided over the course of the plants life, time given for the plant to vegetate, soil mixture/hydro solution used, and many more variants. Keep in mind, a bud weighs more when fully ripe and freshly picked. After a proper dry and cure, the average loss of weight is around 75%. Because of impatience, most novice cultivators want to pick flowers early. That's OK! Be sure, however, to take buds from the middle of the plant or the top. Allow the rest to continue maturing. Often, the tops of the plants will be ripe first. Harvest these and let the rest of the plant continue to ripen. You will notice the lower buds getting larger and more resinous as they come into full maturity. The overall yeild can be increased with a staggered harvest as the lower branch buds are receiving higher amounts of light and more attention from the plants internal chemical processes. Use a magnifier and try to see the capitated stalked trichomes (tiny THC crystals on the buds). If most are clear, not brown, the peak of floral bouquet is near. Once most of these trichomes have reached a brown color, the THC levels are dropping and the flower is past optimum potency, declining rapidly with light and wind exposure. Don't harvest too late! Watch the plants and learn to spot peak floral potency. Manicuring tends to be the most tedious of the cultivation processes. It is the point when you remove all the excess fan leaves and unwanted foliage from your flowers. This stage can be executed in one of two ways, either wet or dry. A wet manicure tends to be much cleaner, as the leaves are still moist and will not create too much of a mess, whereas a dry manicure can leave quite a sticky mess! Use a pair of clean, sharp scissors or clippers to remove the excess. Work your way from the largest leaves to the smallest to make the process much easier. Many people clip around the bud as if they were giving it a hair cut, snipping the outer extremities of the bud, leaving a clean, beautiful nugget. Do not dry Cannabis flowers in the sun, as this process has shown to reduce the potency of the buds. Slowly drying buds by hanging or laying them in a ventilated area is all that is needed to ensure great sensi. Bud is much more pleasing to the taste when it has been slow-dried over the course of a couple of weeks, depending on the density of the flowers. Leafier bud will take less time, as heavier bud will take much longer. Although you may want your bud to taste premium when fully completed, sometimes impatience gets the best of you. If your in a hurry, it's fine to dry a small amount in-between paper sheets or a paper bag in a microwave oven. Be sure to watch the bud and not let it get over-dryed. As convenient as this is, the end result will be a very harsh smoke with a most unpleasant taste as the chlorophyll has not had the chance to convert into starches and sugars. A good indicator of a properly dried bud is actually its stem. If you are able to bend the stem a bit before it snaps in half, it is ready to be cured. This is another critical part of the cultivation experience. A bud that has been properly cured can be much more potent than one that has not. Following a simple process will ensure a great-tasting, mind-blasting smoke. Glass jars, metal coffee tins, or tupperware, amongst other items, can be used to cure your buds. Place the well-dried flowers in the container of your choice and leave it in a relatively cool, dark place. Remove the lid from the container daily and turn the buds, allowing carbon dioxide to escape. Repeat this process for at least two weeks, or until you achieve the desired taste and/or potency. Lastly, make sure to keep the dried and cured bud in a container away from heat or light exposure as much as possible and you will be pleased with the long shelf-life of your very own harvest!

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Outdoor
For many cultivators,outdoor growing is by far the best. It will produce the most potency and unlike indoors,you can grow 12 foot monsters if conditions are correct. Being a naturally robust and fast growing plant marijuana thrives in full sun-but will produce satisfactorily with only 5 hours of direct sunlight. Growing outdoors has many benifits especially in comparison to indoor cultivation. No elecricity bills, no huge monetary layout, and also no dark times to keep you away from your plants. Sunlight tends to reach more of the plant and often the bottom of the plant is as developed as the top, especially when grown in full sunlight. From seed to harvest outdoors can be a long, and though very enjoyable time, one can be faced with a number of problems. In the 6 months or so it takes to grow out your plants, rain and wind can rip little buds apart, deer may eat your crop, rodents, snails and a number of insects/bugs can and will destroy an entire crop. These things need to be considered, vigilance and care can keep problems to a minimum. The most important factors to be considered before planting, however, are Security, the need for maximum light, quality of the soil in the area and water availability. A compromise of these basic factors will assist you in choosing the most appropriate site for your crop. Light exposure is all important when first locating a site. Try to find an innocuos spot where the sun shines for the longest period of time. If you must choose between the morning sun and afternoon sun, it has been shown that the morning sun is more penetrative. Optimum exposure would be 8-5, however, 10-4 will suffice. Large open areas have the best exposure although if electing to grow on a slope usually the south side of a hill receives the most sunlight. Keeping in mind that sunlight at higher altitudes is more intense due to the thinner atmosphere. East/West exposures can be very benificial when getting the morning and midday sun. There are many precautions one can take to protect their bounty from poachers and the law, which include pruning to obscure that distinctive cone-shape of a cannabis plant. Another is intercropping/companion planting-plant amongst soybeans, tomatoe plants, bamboo, sugar cane etc. When growing away from the house-in the wild-access to water can be a huge challenge. Once you have chosen a site, well away from prying eyes and in direct sunlight, water must be your next consideration. It must be available nearby or close to the soil surface otherwise you will have to carry it in. Water is heavy and watering is very hard work let alone the risks taken walking back and forth to your crop every 4 or 5 days in mid-summer. Try to find an area as close to a source of water as possible, a novel idea in this regard is to find water in the mountains-at altitude-and route it down to a lower spot close by. It is possible to create water pressure in a hose this way, and route it to a drip system that feeds the plants at continuous intervals. You can take a 5 gallon (20 litre) drum and punch holes in it, run a hose from the main oriface and secure it somehow. Bury the drum in a river or stream under rocks,so it is hidden and submerged. Bury the hose coming out of it and run it down hill to your garden area. A little engineering can save a lot of hard work-and this rig can be used year after year. You will also need to decide whether you are going to plant in the ground, which is by far the best option, or into large pots. Planting directly into the ground gives you freedom from rootbound worries and the need for transplanting. Some growers prefer growing in large pots, however, so the plants can be easily transported should the need arise. Entire crops have been saved due to being transportable in pots. Also, by digging a big hole and placing the pot inside it, you can reduce the height of your plants if fence level is an issue. Once deciding upon your plot, begin by digging a big hole with at least 2.5 feet dimensions. The bigger the better and if tree roots are present,be sure to dig as wide as possible. The soil quality will now be more easily analysed, however there is no one perfect soil to grow cannabis in. Different varieties grow within a wide range of soil conditions. Your objective is a soil comprising of good drainage and aeration, high in available nutrients and with an average pH. Though thesedays,outdoor growers aim for a pH. reading of 6.3 to 6.8. Cannabis grows very poorly in extremely compacted soils with poor drainage and extreme pH. When the soil in the plot is not adequate, options are open to you in the way of improving the soil medium. Soil conditioners are available or you can carry topsoil in. Plants grown in the ground should grow much bigger and will need more space than smaller, indoor plants. How far apart you space them will greatly depend on variety, plus whether or not the plant has been topped. Pruned plants have a much wider base than unpruned plants. Plants which are topped more than once can grow twice the size as they normally would. The more space afforded to each plant the more sunlight they will receive, therefore growing bigger thus increasing yeild. When choosing to grow in a greenhouse it is a good idea to disguise it as a tool shed, or some similar structure which can partially be achieved by using only one wall and the roof of white opaqued plastic, PVC, Filon or glass, and using a similar colour material for the rest of the shed-or painting it white or silver to look like metal. Try to make it appear as if it has always been there, with plants and trees that grow around to mask it while still allowing in sunlight. Clear plastic sheets of Filon (corrugated fibreglass) are available and you can opaque them with white wash (made from lime) or Epoxy resin tinted with white or gray painted on in a thin layer-this will pass more sun than white PVC or Filon. The coats of Epoxy resin will also protect the Filon for many, many seasons. Be sure not to tint the resin too much. You need to also keep the sun blockage to a minimum.
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Hydro
Hydroponics is simply the growing of plants without soil, instead using a medium like clay pebbles, rockwool-floc or perlite and vermiculite mixture. The type of mixture you choose to grow your plants in will depend on the type of system you are using to grow your plants in, some methods use no medium at all. There are many advantages to hydroponics, firstly it is fast as you are providing the exact elements the plant needs to grow, secondly plants do not generally become root-bound in hydroponic grows as the food is delivered to the roots, the plants don’t have to go searching. Things will happen a little quicker in hydro so you have to make daily visits to the garden, inspect it and notice what’s happening with the plant or plants there, look listen and learn. As we are not using soil we will need to provide the elements the plant needs to grow, generally we should try and use a hydroponic food, but any mineral salt plant food will do. Remember to use it according to the directions, as your plants will not grow any faster if you give them too much food. Nutrients are usually sold, as concentrates that are mixed with water, never pour these directly on to your plants, as they are too strong when undiluted. Generally you will want to flush your plants once per month with fresh water to remove any excess salts that may buildup. PH is important in hydroponics but electronic pens whilst necessary for active systems are not so for passive whose growers can use PH test kits for aquariums or even test tape as a cheaper option. We aim for a Ph of between 5.5 and 6.1 in hydroponics at all times. In vegetative state we aim for the more acidic 5.5 and in flowering up higher at 5.9 to 6.1 so we get all the available elements the plant needs. We can lower the Ph making it more acidic with Phosphoric acid or we can raise it making it alkaline with Potassium Hydroxide, both available from gardening stores. The strength of the nutrient is measured either by a PPM pen or an EC Pen available from hydroponic and gardening stores. Beginners can grow simply by following the nutrient recommendations on the bottle. There are two types of hydroponic systems, passive and active. Passive systems are the simplest and easiest to use, they are also the cheapest. You can simply get an 8-inch pot, some perlite/vemiculite mixture and a small fluorescent light and you are growing. Some people may wish to grow outdoors using this method, as the results are just as good. Passive methods of growing will usually use perlite & Vemiculite granules as a medium or other suitable materials, the plant will simply be hand-watered when the medium becomes dry 1 inch down, you can test this by sticking your finger in and checking. Another basic passive system is the wick system, again its just a pot that sits above a small tray of nutrient, there is wicks running from the tray up through the pots, keeping the mixture moist and providing food the whole time for the plant. Another option is a tub placed in a tub, make some holes in the top tub and run the wicks through into the nutrient below fill the top tub with perlite vemiculite and you’re growing. The solutions in these types of systems are discarded every 3 or 4 days and a new solution is prepared. A simple Rock-wool system can be made by getting a kitty litter tray and cutting a rock-wool slab in half so it sits inside the tray, next saturate it with mixture of nutrient solution that is ph adjusted to 5.5 and leave for 24hrs, Rock-wool is advantageous in that you can buy small plugs to plant seeds or start clones in then simply cut a hole in a larger rock-wool slab and plant straight in, the roots will grow straight through the small cube into the slab. You will need to make a hole in the bottom of the tray for the slab to drain, keep it wet and allow it to drain by placing the tray on an angle. Remember to flush the whole slab with at least 5 gallons of water every 2 weeks to prevent excess salt buildup. Rockwool slabs can also be used in Ebb and flow tables where a pump floods the table to a particular height then it over flows through a tube back to the tank below, after the pump turns off the tray drains back through the pump hose. Pots with expanded clay pebbles can also be used in systems like this, watering is controlled by a timer attached to the pump and is generally turned on for 15mins every hour or more. We only need use 8 inch pots in our systems unless massive plants are our goal as the plant is always delivered what it needs, an overall highly efficient method of gardening. Active systems are those that use a pump to in some way circulate the nutrients, this can be as simple as a 10 gallon tub below containing the nutrients, and a tray above with 6 or 7 pots in it, a tube runs from the pump in the tank below up to a smaller hose that runs to each of the plants, a hole in the bottom of the tray allows the nutrient solution to run back down to the tank. DWC or Deep water Culture gardens have pots or tubs that are suspended 1 inch over nutrient solution, an aquarium bubbler is placed below the bottom of the plant and bubbles feed the plant the air it needs whilst its constantly in nutrient meaning that the growth can be extremely quick this also is possible with high performance aeroponic and the Quantum Hydroponic gardens. All active systems perform well, but can be costly to setup initially, the advantages is that the nutrients are either periodically or continually pumped and delivered to the plants resulting in very fast and lush growth and flowering. These systems will require more daily work than the passive systems but are not overly hard to master with patience and practice. Aeroponic systems often have small 6 inch pots filled with expanded clay or pea gravel, the roots grow in netted pots down into opaque tubs or tubes and small misters spray micro fine droplets of nutrient solution that are absorbed by the plants. We can buy small aquarium bubblers with tubes and bubble air through our nutrient solutions to keep them balanced. Optionally we can use aquarium heaters also to heat the solution to around 75F or 21 Degrees. No matter what method we choose to grow our plant or plants there are a few things we should remember about hydro grows. Plant mediums should never be saturated for extended periods of time, this is especially important with Rockwool slabs and Perlite/Vemiculite pots, too much water can cause death (the plant will drown). We don’t over feed our plants to make them grow bigger buds either, marijuana plants will only take what they need and cannot be force fed, too much nutrient just means burnt leaves and poor health. In the garden we regularly remove dead leaves and make sure the plants are healthy and bug free. Some green algae may grow on the medium, we can prevent this by covering our Rock-wool slabs and our pots with black plastic to prevent the light from reaching it, harmless but annoying.
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Organics
Growing with Organics The first and best reason to consider using organic fertilizers instead of chemicals is that there is almost zero chance that you will burn (overfertilization causing injury or death) the plants with them. When fed organic substances, plants will only take in the nutrients they need, leaving the rest in the soil. Additionally, organic fertilizers are broken down slowly in the soil by microorganisms, which ensures a steady supply of nutrients to your plants; also, lots of soil microorganisms are good for the soil and consequently, your plants as well. Chemical fertilizers, on the other hand, are in a highly soluble form and are generally of a much higher concentration than organic fertilizers. Upon applying them to the soil, they are quickly taken up by the roots. Because they are so concentrated, this rapid action will cause the plant to take in toxic levels of nutrients if the fertilizer is overapplied, leading to injury and even death if the levels are high enough. Additionally, chemical fertilizers leave salts behind in the soil. If the plant is not flushed periodically (every 1-2 months), these salts will build up to levels that are dangerous to the plants. (As a related note, if the soil is not flushed just prior to harvest, the taste of the smoke will be adversely affected.) Finally, chemical fertilizers have an adverse effect on soil microorganisms, including earthworms. Beyond the issues of soil chemistry and nutrient uptake, there is little question that using organic substances are better for the environment, even when growing indoors. Organic fertilizers - blood and bone meal, fish emulsion, manure, worm castings - are renewable. Petroleum, which chemical fertilizers are synthesized from, is not. For the outdoor grower, choice of fertilizer has an even more profound effect. Successful outdoor growing is closely linked with the health of the soil. Chemical fertilizers, as mentioned, have an adverse effect on soil life, which decreases the biodiversity and overall health of the soil. Chemicals are also far more soluble than organics, and are often washed away with rain or a too-heavy watering. Not only does this not help your plant, it also causes a potential pollution problem - for instance, toxic algae blooms in lakes and ponds are often linked with fertilizer run-off from lawns. Organics are not without their drawbacks, however, especially to the indoor grower. Some organic fertilizers, fish emulsion in particular, have an odor that may offend delicate noses. (However, any security measures involving air filtering or ionization should keep the smell to a minimum.) Also, because organics encourage soil life, there are sometimes more problems with insects, particularly fungus gnats. Finally, organics require a greater investment of time and effort: chemical fertilizers' main advantage is their ease of use. In the event that you face insect problems, there are a number of organic controls at your disposal. The easiest homemade, all-purpose bug killer is about a teaspoon of soap (I prefer Dr. Bronners Eucalyptus or Peppermint, which are generally eco-friendly and may have additional insecticidal effects) in a spray bottle of water. Spray any bugs you see, the plants (including the undersides of the leaves!) and the soil surface thoroughly with this solution. The soap coats the outsides of the bugs' bodies, which suffocates them. Another, stronger option is Tobacco tea. The nicotine in tobacco is one of the more potent poisons known, and will generally wipe out even mites, which are usually quite difficult to kill. It's worth remembering that nicotine is poisonous, so keep that in mind. (Unless you also smoke cigarettes, in which case, go crazy.) Here is a recipe: Buy a package of Chewing Tobacco and put the whole package into 1 gallon of warm water. Let it stand in a warm place overnight 12 hours minimum. Filter the solution using a coffee filter and put it into a clean spray device. You can add 4 tablespoons of dish soap to this and spray the foliage down. Make sure you get the mites. Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Once you have done this sparay the floor and walls in the grow area. Bear in mind that the spray may brown the leaf tips and visible pistils. This is a very powerful contact insecticide. If you feel like going the store-bought route, a product called Safer Insecticidal Soap has been used with good results. As a final resort, you can use insecticides made from pyrethins, which are synthesized from certain varities of Chrysanthemums. Although they are reportedly non-toxic to humans and animals, they are a potent toxin and probably shouldn't be used anytime near harvest. With any insecticide, multiple treatments over a 1- to 3-week period will probably be necessary to kill the bugs, plus any new ones that hatch after your first applications. Finally, perhaps the best route is to go outside and catch some ladybugs (or order them from a nursery or garden supply). Ladybugs are vicious insect killers, but won't touch your plants. __________________ Notes on some commonly used organic ferts: Blood Meal : 13 - 0 - 0 Blood meal has one of the highest concentrations of Nitrogen of any organic fertilizer, and is consequently a popular choice for the vegetative growth period. In its dry and slow-acting form, it can be mixed in with the soil at a rate of 1 to 2 tablespoons per gallon of soil mix. However, many growers prefer to use it as a soluble fertilizer as it acts very quickly without much danger of burning - much like the action of a chemical fertilizer, but without the risks. To make blood meal tea, soak 1 tablespoon of blood meal in a gallon of water for 5 to 7 days. The longer you wait, the higher concentration of N the tea will have. Shake well, then strain out the solids and water your plants with the tea. >Bone Meal : 1 - 11 - 0 Bone meal is high in Phosphorus, and is most suitable for the flowering period. However, as it is a slow-release fertilizer, it is fine to add to the soil earlier in the grow period. (Perhaps the best course of action is to add it to the mix you perform your final transplant into.) One caution about bone meal, especially in Europe, is that many growers will not use it for fear of spreading Mad Cow Disease. Although this has not been proven, it is wise to bear this in mind. Fish Emulsion : 5 - 1 - 1 Fish emulsion is a liquid solution made from decomposed fish and sometimes other ingredients. It is an exceedingly gentle fertilizer and is thought by many growers to be the best "first fert" to use on young plants. Its NPK ratio is also ideal for vegetative growth. It is usually mixed with water at a rate of 1 to 3 tablespoons per gallon. Worm castings : 0.5 - 0.5- 0.3 Also known as worm compost or good ol' worm sh*t, this may be the single best all-purpose fertilizer. Although the nutrient levels are relatively low, worm castings somehow have amazing effects on plant vigor, and anyone who has used them can testify to their effectiveness. They are very gentle on plants, making them ideal for seedlings, and also contain micronutrients. Worm castings can be used as part of the soil mix (no more than 15% total volume is suggested) or can be made into tea (1 part WC to 5 parts water) and applied as watering solution or as a foliar fertilizer. Kelp meal: 1 - 0.5 - 2.5 Kelp meal provides over 60 trace elements, plus growth promoting hormones and enzymes. As such, it is often used to ensure the plant is properly supplied with micronutrients. Can be used as part of the soil mix (1-2 tablespoons/gallon) or brewed into tea at the same rate.
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Cloning

Materials Needed

• terrarium/old fishtank (I picked this one up at a garage sale for $0.25)
• waterbed heater w/thermostat (same garage sale, $2.00)
• fluorescent light
• peat pellets
• spray bottle
• saran wrap (not shown)

Optional

• No-Damp
• 2x4's, plywood, light switch

Hang light to the desiered area, a 20 watt is reccomended for this project. Now that my light is hung and ready, the next step is to lay out the waterbed heating pad. The pad is laid out so that the terrarium will be sitting directly ontop of it.

The thermostat is placed near by for easy access, and it is set at 80deg F for most cuttings. If rooting tropical varieties, I would suggest a setting nearer 90deg F.

The next step is preparation of the terrarium. I took mine down to the laundry sink and scrubbed it clean using detergent. I would not recommend using bleach, for bleach leaves a residue toxic to your plants. Once it is thoroughly cleaned, and dry, fill the bottom two inches with soil. I prefer to use Sunshine Mix #4. Once complete, place the terrarium ontop of the heating pad and beneath the light.

I mix the required amount of No-Damp into the water, before moistening the soil within the terrarium. Dampen the soil, do not leave it dry and do not make it wet. This will keep the peat pellet at the correct moisture.

Now is time to take your freshly cut clones and place them into peat pellets which have been expanded. The trick here is to bury the pellets most of the way into the soil, this will keep the pellets moist, warm, and will allow the roots to grow into the soil. The pellet on the right is sitting ontop of the soil, the pellet on the left is correctly buried into the soil.

Once you have all the pellets in place, you are ready to place the temperature probe from the waterbed heating pad. I like to place the probe just above the soil, but not touching the soil, terrarium, or any plants and pellets. This will regulate the temperature within the terrarium to keep your new cuttings happy.

Mix up a spray bottle of cold water and the appropriate amount of No-Damp. Give the plants, the soil, and the inside walls of the terrarium a good misting. Mist everything without making the water bead and runoff.

Cover the terrarium with saran wrap to maintain humidity and temperature. Ensure to leave a one inch gap for fresh air.

Now you are all set to get started. Plug everything in, turn on your light and waterbed heating pad. The pad will warm your environment to optimum temperatures, plus you have just made a high humidity environment for your plants to root. Now, just watch it go. There is really nothing more to do, the pellets will moisturize themselves from the soil and the temperature will remain the same. Check it daily, and give the inside of the terrarium a light misting, if needed. As long as there is still moisture on the terrarium glass, misting is not needed.

As long as your cloning methods are solid, in seven to ten days you will have roots running through the soil. The cutting pictured is shown at day ten, and some roots had to be broken to remove it from the soil.

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Terms
18/6: Time normally associated with the vegetative stage of growth i.e. 18 hours of light to 6 of darkness.

12/12: Timing used to initiate the flowering stage of the plant i.e. 12 hours light to 12 hours darkness.

Abiotic stress: Non-living environmental factors such as frost, drought, excessive heat, etc. that can have harmful effects on plants.

Abscisic acid: mediates stress tolerance responses in higher plants, is a key signal compound that regulates stomatal aperture and, in concert with other plant signaling compounds, is implicated in mediating responses to pathogens and wounding.

In seeds, ABA promotes seed development, embryo maturation, synthesis of storage products (proteins and lipids), desiccation tolerance, is involved in maintenance of dormancy (inhibition of germination), and apoptosis. As well, ABA affects plant architecture, including root growth and morphology, and root-to-shoot ratios.

Aeroponics: is the growing of plants in a container in which the roots are suspended in a nutrient mist rather than in a solution. The most popular container for aeroponics is an enclosed A-frame constructed of styrofoam boards. The plants are placed in holes along the sloped sides of the frame. The nutrient mist is delivered to the roots by a vaporizer or by special attachments available with drip irrigation kits. The mist clings to the roots. Any excess runs down the inside of the frame, is collected at the bottom, and is recycled back to the nutrient reservoir.

Alternating leaf: as the plant grows, in the beginning, every leaf(that is not damaged) will have another leaf growing from exactly 180 degrees on around the stem. they grow in pairs. when the plants mature, the leaves will grow one at a time. that is a leaf will pop out on one side, then, up the stem/ branch, another will grow. i.e. alternating.

Auxins: are plant hormones governing many biological processes in higher plants such as cell enlargement and division, differentiation of vascular tissue, apical dominance, root initiation and signaling.

Ballast: Provides current and power to the light. Here it mostly refers to the above for H.I.D. (high intensity discharge) lighting.

Blood Meal: This organic fertilizer is very high in nitrogen and is very soluble in water (unlike most other dry organic fertilizers). It also contains plant growth regulators. All this together means that its effect is strong and quick, but its power will only last a short while, especially in wet weather. When applying blood meal, take care, as it will easily burn a plant's leaves.

Buds: The reason this website exists! -The part of the flowering female plant that contains high concentrations of THC and other psychoactive ingredients.

Bud Leaves: the small leaves that grow in the buds of the plant, usually covered in trichomes when harvested.

Calyxes: "the usually green outer whorl of a flower consisting of sepals" - Merriam-Webster I was looking for a diagram to illustrate, but I haven't come across a real good one yet.

Canopy: The top branches of a plant, usually shading the lower branches, except when branch training methods are used. (See LST, SCROG, and SOG).

CBD/CBN: byproducts of the main psychoactive ingredient in pot, THC. these byproducts are created when the THC degrades, due to over exposure to heat/oxygen(some THC will naturally do this while the flowers ripen). it is believed that they are responsible for the stony part of the high, and known to have a direct effect on the psychoactive effect THC has on the "user". it is only needed in minimal amounts, in comparison to THC.

CFM - Cubic Feet per Minute. This describes the volume of air that is displaced in 1 minute (see ventilation).

Chlorophyll: the green pigment in leaves. Chlorophyll pigment is produced in the chloroplasts of leaf, stem and flower cells. Chlorophyll pigment dominates all other pigments present including the xanthophylls and carotenes. Chlorophyll captures the sun's energy which is used to manufacture sugar from carbon dioxide and water. Chlorophylls are constantly being "used up" and thus are continually manufacture by the plant, provided the environmental conditions are appropriate.

Cloning: the process of replicating female plants. Cloning Guide, with pics.

Colas : "The female flowers develop tightly together to form dense clusters (racemes) or buds, cones, or colas"- Mel Frank Marijuana Grower's Guide This is the dank shiznit you are going to be smokin' friend.

Composting : The process by which organic materials mixed together in specific conditions create a nutrient-rich medium.

Curing : Process of placing the dried harvest in tightly sealed, sterile, jar, which should be stored in a dry, dark, cool place. Then according to preference open the jar for a certain amount of time everyday to release co2 and moisture and this slowly dries the crop, thus improving taste and over all quality.

Cotyledons : small round leaves that are the first to appear on a small seedling, they are not considered 'true leaves? and often fall off of the plant early in the growth stage.

Cuttings : Sometimes the easiest (and fastest) way to grow a new plant is not from seed, but asexually from cuttings. Cuttings are taken from roots, stems, or leaves and encouraged to regenerate by providing ideal growing conditions and (oftentimes) applying rooting hormones. Unlike plants started from seed, a plant grown from a cutting will have exactly the same characteristics of the parent plant (See Also - Cloning)

Decarboxylation :This occurs after buds are harvested and during the curing process. The THC loses a CO2 molecule, which then makes the THC psychoactive. This process is why drying and curing buds after harvest is crucial to the high that the bud produces.

Fish emulsion : This is a liquid organic fertilizer with a NPK ratio of about 4-1-1 to 7-2-2. It is water soluble and thus immediately available to plants. It is valued for its high nitrogen content.

FIM : Acronym for "F*** I Missed!? A variant of the topping technique, where only a portion of the growth tip is removed, causing an increase in resulting cola sites. (See also topping).

Flo, Flouro, Floro's : Fluorescents come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. There are compacts, twist bulbs and circle bulbs. They all work the same way. They have a starter and ballast which help provide a steady and regulated amount of electricity to the light.

FLIR : Acronym for Forward-Looking Infrared, it is a thermal imaging process whereby differences in heat emission are measured and reflected on a videotape. Heat concentration is indicated on a videotape on a spectrum of light to dark, with bright white showing intense heat. Increasingly, law enforcement personnel are using FLIR thermal imaging to detect indoor marijuana growing operations. However, the Supreme Court in the U.S. has recently banned the use of FLIR to find these operations.

Flush : the act of cleansing a plant's roots of nutrients and contaminants by giving the plant large amounts of water (usually equal to 3 times the volume of soil the plant is in).

Foliar Feeding : The act of giving water and/or nutrients to the plant through the leaves instead of through the roots.

Force Flowering : Giving a female plant a photoperiod of 12/12 to force the plant into producing buds.

Garlic: (Apologies to any vamps out there) Planted in the same pot/area as your plants will act as a natural systemic insecticide to greenfly and black fly the plants absorb it from the growing garlic it DOES NOT affect the plants scent or taste, can also be used for same reason with other plants.

Germinate : To begin to sprout or grow.

Gibberellic Acid :A hormone used to promote plant growth, especially that of seedlings, and obtained from the fungus Gibberella fujikoroi (GA) is used to reduce flowering and fruiting which maximizes growth and minimizes pollen transmitted. GA is also used in mature plants to increase the fruiting capacity by stimulating the development of lateral shoots and spurs.

Harvesting : The act or process of gathering a crop Harvest & Drying 101

Herbs : Aromatic plants used for seasoning, medicinal purposes, or garnishes. Aromatic herbs are the ones that have fragrant or smelly leaves or flowers.

HID : High Intensity Discharge (lighting) .

HPS : The best light available today for growing Marijuana. High Pressure Sodium lights are very bright and very efficient. This light has a red/orange spectrum that is ideal for the flowering phase. With enough of these kind of lights you too can grow those centerfold buds. HPS comes in a wide variety of wattages from 70 watts up to 1000 watts.

Hormone :A biochemical product of a specific cell or tissue that causes a change or activity in a cell or tissue located elsewhere in an organism.

Hydroponics : the growing of plants without soil, instead using a medium like clay pebbles, rockwool -floc or perlite and vermiculite mixture.

Humus : a complicated material formed during the breakdown of organic matter. One of its components, humic acid, provides many binding sites for plant nutrients, such as calcium, iron, potassium, sulfur and phosphorus. These nutrients are stored in the humic acid molecule in a form readily available to plants, and are released when the plants require them.

Hybrid : Often refers to a plant or variety that has been developed by interbreeding two or more varieties, species, or genera

Indica : Indica is a great plant to grow indoors as well as outdoors due to its low lighting requirements and tight internode spacing, also offering resistance to fungus and pests, early maturation tendencies, and dense flower production. Indica's come from colder climates exhibiting the traits described above by acclimating to the environment from whence they came. Their stout stature and extremely wide leaflets make them easy to identify. An Indica generally produces a hard hitting, tiresome, sedative stone, and will take around 45 to 60 days to finish flowering.

Leggy : If seedlings and plants do not get enough sunlight, they grow tall and thin stalks as they seek sunlight. These "leggy" plants have a difficult time supporting the weight of the plant and is easily damaged.

Light-burn : When the heat from a light burns the plant.

Lumens : one lumen is equal to the amount of light emitted by one candle that falls on one square foot of surface one foot away. Lamp Lumen Data .

LST : Acronym for Low-Stress Training, the technique of manipulating the branches in order to reduce plant height, expose certain branches to light, and/or distribute hormones to lower branches of the plant to encourage larger buds.

Macronutrients :For a plant, there are nine major elements essential for healthy growth; these are called macronutrients. They are: carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen (which are all three derived from air and water); and nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulfur, and magnesium (from the soil).

Micronutrients :There are about eight nutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only present in very small quantities. These are manganese, boron, copper, iron, chlorine, cobalt, molybdenum, and zinc.

Medium : A soil or soil-less mix used to start or re-plant houseplants, flowers, vegetables, and other plants.

Mottling of Leaves : Discoloration or spotting of leaves.

MV : Mercury Vapor is the type of lights that were used for streetlights many years ago. Not very good for growing because it doesn't provide enough of the right kind of light spectrum. While they do provide a little of the blue spectrum, MV also produces too much heat to get very close to a plant, and are very inefficient to operate.

MH : The Metal Halide is a very good source of the white/blue spectrum of light that is ideal for vegetative growth. Many growers use MH during the vegetative phase. MH is bright and cost efficient to operate, but not as efficient as HPS lights. Most commonly used sizes are 400 watt and 1000 watt. Works best when used in combination with HPS lights.

Necrosis : Death of parts of the plant, usually refers specifically to the leaves.

Node : The point on a stem where a leaf is attached or has been attached; a joint.

N-P-K : The elemental symbol for nitrogen is N; for phosphorus it's P; for potassium it's K. All three of these elements are essential for plant growth and are considered macronutrients. N, P, and K are the three principal ingredients in most fertilizers. The NPK ratio is shown by three numbers, such as 2-1-1, that reflect the percentage of each.

Nute-burn : the result of feeding a plant an excess of fertilizer.

Organic Nutrients : Natural, non-synthetic nutrients.

Peat moss :The partially decomposed remains of mosses harvested commercially from the wild. Though difficult to wet initially, peat moss can absorb up to 25 times its own weight in water and is therefore valued as a an organic soil amendment. Peat moss is acidic with a pH of about 3 or 4.0 and should only be used around acid-loving plants or to help lower the pH of alkaline soils.

Perlite : a unique volcanic mineral which expands from four to twenty times its original volume when it is quickly heated to a temperature of approximately 1600-1700 degrees F. This expansion is due to the presence of two to six percent combined water in the crude perlite rock which causes the perlite to pop in a manner similar to that of popcorn.

When expanded, each granular, snow-white particle of perlite is sterile with a neutral pH and contains many tiny, closed cells or bubbles. The surface of each particle is covered with tiny cavities which provide an extremely large surface area. These surfaces hold moisture and nutrients and make them available to plant roots. In addition, because of the physical shape of each particle, air passages are formed which provide optimum aeration and drainage. Because perlite is sterile, it is free of disease, seeds, and insects.

Perlite: has been used for many years throughout the world for soil conditioning and as a component of growing mixes with materials such as peat moss or bark. Extensive studies have shown that the unique capillary action of perlite makes it a superior growing media for hydroponic cultures.

Among the many uses of perlite today are propagation and seed cultivation, plug production and transplants, interior scape and planter growing, composting,

PH : the measure of soil's acidity or alkalinity, measured on a scale of 1 to 14. Water is considered neutral at PH 7. PH levels below 7 are classified as acidic, or "sour". Levels above 7 are basic, alkaline or "sweet". Most plants prefer a slightly acidic soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Phloem: Nutrient conducting tissue.

Photoperiod : AKA lighting schedule, it is the number of hours of light and darkness the plant is exposed to. Usually expressed as a fraction. Ex: 18/6 = 18 hours of light, and 6 hours of darkness.

Photosynthesis: Biochemical process in which light energy is absorbed by chlorophyll, and is used to fuel the building of sugar molecules.

Pistil : a hair-like protrusion from the nodes/buds of a female plant, also a precursor to the buds themselves. Pistils turn from white to brown as the buds mature.

Potash : Broadly, potash describes any material containing potassium. More specifically, though, potash is potassium carbonate derived from wood ashes. The term potash comes from the process of extracting lye from wood ashes in iron pots.

PPM : Acronym for Parts Per Million, this term is used most in hydroponics to measure the amount of nutrients given to a plant.

Rock Wool : Mineral or rock wool has been used extensively in Europe and is recently finding applications in the U.S. greenhouse market. Like perlite and vermiculite, it originates from a natural mineral (alumino silicates with some calcium and magnesium) that is heated to 2,700?F to form fibers that are used to make blocks or cubes as a finished product. Blocks or slabs of rock wool are used extensively by hydroponic growers of greenhouse vegetables. Rock wool typically has an alkaline pH, is sterile and chemically inert.

Regenerate : AKA re-vegging, refers to the act of putting a plant back into the growth cycle after harvesting the flowering buds off of the plant, in order to bud the plant again or to take clones off of the plant.

Root Bound :A condition where a plant or seedling's roots have grown compacted and entwined in the pot and has no room to grow. This condition results in stunting the plants growth and potential. The solution is a larger pot or transplanting outdoors.

Ruderalis : Ruderalis is not a very good choice for flower production, indoors or out. Despite maintaining a short stature, growing only one to five feet tall, and maturing rather quickly, Ruderalis just doesn't produce the yield or quality one looks for in their flowers. A slight light cycle reduction can trigger a sprout with as little as 2 to 3 leaf sets to flower. Ruderalis spontaneously initiates flowering a few weeks after sprouting, and will not produce decent flowers unless the photoperiod provides around 18 to 19 hours of light. Even then, the yield and quality are less than desirable, incomparable to that of the Sativa or Indica sub-species.

Sativa : Sativa is a hard plant to grow indoors due to high lighting requirements, tall stature, and late flowering traits. Sativas come from equatorial regions, thus the necessity for high amounts of lighting and a warmer tropic-subtropical climate. You can identify a Sativa by its long, slender, finger-like leaves. A Sativa will typically produce a euphoric, energetic, cerebral high. Despite the Sativa's climatic limitations, they are truly a reward to obtain, grow, and smoke. A pure Sativa will take 2 to 4 months to finish flowering.

ScrOG/ SOG : "Screen Of Green" method. The purpose of ScrOG is to maximize your usage of the available space and lighting by training the new growth of a plant into a screen or mesh. What is ScrOG?

Seed Casing : The integuments of the ovule, which are the ovule's old coverings, harden and become the seed's protective coat.

Sensimilla : Spanish for 'without seed', AKA sensi, having a female plant bud without letting a male plant pollinate it, thereby preventing seeds from forming in the buds. This increases THC potency and smokable bud weight.

Sepal : Sepals are components of the calyx. Located at the base of the flower, these modified leaves usually function as protection for the petals while in bud stage. Occasionally, sepals will be colored, but they are usually green.

Sex : verb. The act of determining the gender of a plant by giving it a photoperiod of 12/12.

Stamen :This is the male reproductive organ of a plant, located in the androecium of the flower. It has two components: the filament and the anther.

Stigma: The sticky tip of a pistil.

Strain : refers to the specific genetics of the plant. Example: White Widow, Northern Lights.

Stomata: Opening in the epidermis of a leaf which permit gas exchange with the air.

Stress : Any unhealthy stimuli the plant receives. Examples: Light-burn, over watering, nute-burn. Stress can cause slow growth, mutations, or death.

Sun Leaves : (AKA fan leaves) these are the large leaves that grow off of branches, and while not rich in THC, they play an important role in photosynthesis.

Synthetic Nutrients : AKA Chemical nutrients, concentrated and industrial-made nutrients. They have a longer shelf-life than organic nutes, but are known to nute-burn a plant more quickly.

THC

a. Tetrahydrocannabinol A compound, C-21 H-30 O-2, obtained from cannabis or made synthetically, that is the primary intoxicant in marijuana and hashish.

b. The main psychoactive ingredient in pot. this is what gets you "high!". it is often(not totally accurately) measured by the trichomes(fairy dust) visible on pot.

Topping : Method used to increase yield and maximize space, by trimming off the top bud. Traditionally, topping your plant causes two shoots to grow back in place of the one pruned off, thus increasing the number of top/main buds.

Transplant Shock : When transplanting seedlings from one place to another, the roots are often disturbed and occasionally the change in climate can cause the plant to slow down or appear to stop growing. This is transplant shock. It is really redirecting it's energy to re-grow lost roots and to get accustomed to a change in temperature that it hadn't experienced before.v Trichomes : AKA crystals or sugar, they are tiny, mushroom-shaped capitulate glands full of THC that form on the flowering buds and bud leaves of cannabis.

Vascular: Refers to the xylem and phloem tissues, which conduct water and nutrients through the plant body.

Vermiculite : is sterile and light in weight (5 to 8 lbs/ft3). The pH of vermiculite will vary depending on where it is mined. Most U.S. sources are neutral to slightly alkaline, whereas vermiculite from Africa can be quite alkaline (pH = 9). Vermiculite is used extensively in the greenhouse industry as a component of mixes or in propagation. It is usually sold in four size grades: #1 is the coarsest and #4 the smallest. The finer grades are used extensively for seed germination or to top dress seed flats. Expanded vermiculite should not be pressed or compacted, especially when wet, as this will destroy the desirable physical properties.

Ventilation : Circulating air in order to provide the plant with fresh air and/or to reduce the temperature in the grow area. Air movement also encourages strong stems.

Watering Schedule : term referring to how often and how much water a plant is given, usually measured in days and gallons. Ex: 1 gallon every 4 days.

Watts : A measure of the amount of electricity flowing through a wire. Watt hours measure the amount of watts used in one hour. A kilowatt/hour (KWH) is 1000 watt/hours.

Worm Casting : (Vermiconversion) or using earthworms to convert waste into soil additives, is a biologically active mound containing thousands of bacteria, enzymes, and remnants of plant materials and animal manures that were not digested by the earthworm. The composting process continues after a worm casting has been deposited. In fact, the bacterial population of a cast is much greater than the bacterial population of either ingested soil, or the earthworm's gut. An important component of this dark mass is humus. Xylem: Water-conducting tissue. Top



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